A Southern Rhone Tasting with Alun Griffiths MW

2006 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Blanc

The blend of this wine is 30% Marsanne, 30% Bourbelenc 30% Viogner 10% Clairette.  All varieties are vinified separately and are matured in barrels and steel tanks for 8 months prior to blending.  Punchy aromas of tinned mandarins, fresh peaches and honey immediately leap out of the glass.  The palate has the texture and weight of a white Burgundy, whilst lifted jasmine and lemon grass notes lead to a refreshingly elegant finish.

 

 

2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Domaine des Saumades

A blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourbelenc and Clairette, this offering from Frank and Muried Mousset does not disappoint (as so many white CNPs unfortunately do).  Playful intermingling notes of tangerine, pear, orange blossom and citrus precede fuller, exotic tones of papaya and almond.  Very well balanced and quite simply angelic.

 

 

2005 Domaine des Espiers Sablet

The small percentage of Mourvedre and the nature of the 2005 vintage give this impressive, powerful wine an extra bit of muscle.  Sweet, smoky cherry fruit flavours lead to savoury liquorice and garrigue tones.  Chewy yet ripe tannins make this wine a blissful match for hearty red meat fare: think medieval banquet.

 

 

2006 Côtes du Rhône Domaine la Soumade, André Romero

Not to be confused with the Argentinian professional golfer, Andres Romero, winemaker Andre Romero has recently caught the attention of Robert Parker (he may be a golf fan too, who knows). Opulent kirsch and dark bitter chocolate tones and a tantalising velvety textured palate certainly suit me down to a tee (ha ha).

 

 

2006 Vacqueyras “Les Clos”, Montirius

An earthy delight, this wine is chock full of liquorice, tapenade, plum pudding and garrigue aromas.  Trampled undergrowth springs to mind.  Chewy, almost spicy tannins coat the gums.  A large steak or a little more time in the cellar needed here, but still very good.

Rhone Revolution

Crozes-Hermitage, Tour d’Albon 2005, Delas

 

 Recently, my super organised flatmate has been following The Kitchen Revolution. This is a cookery bible inspired by the credit crunch, which involves cooking one HUGE main meal at the weekend and then living inventively off the leftovers for the rest of the week.  Luckily for me, the main meal is usually so colossal, I get to help out eating it… but second helpings are a no-no – I must leave leftovers, or Stephen would starve.  Since I’m getting a weekly free meal (and the main meal is the poshest), I of course provide the booze.  So to accompany a roast leg of lamb, with new season’s garlic, braised lentils, glazed baby carrots and potatoes, we guzzled this wonderful Crozes Hermitages (bought from Nicolas, £16). 

Many a wine bore will chatter endlessly about how great the 2005 vintage was in Bordeaux and pretty much the rest of France.  This is a fantastic boost for French wine, but bad, bad, bad for the wino’s wallet.  However, I thought this wine from the Rhone Valley certainly lived up to its glorious ‘class of 05 reputation’ and was therefore worth the dinero.  Roasted hazelnut and blackcurrant aromas to the fore, with tons of spice.  The palate is very well balanced, with some liquorice with the fruit.  I think it would taste even better in 5 years time, but still awesome now. 

Roddy’s “Greece is the Word” Tasting

 Last Wednesday evening I attended a Greek  wine tasting, hosted by fellow wino friend, Roddy (he’s the friendly looking man in the above photo).   The Ancient Greeks brought wine to much of the Mediterranean, so they’ve been practicing for quite a long time now.  Rather than write about these in the order of tasting, I’ve grouped them by producer.  You can buy all the following wines from your local Oddbins.

 

Ktima Kosta Lazaridi “Amethystos” Range

Kostas Lazaridis opened his winery in Adriana, Drama in 1992. Starting with a mere 10 hectares under vine he now has over 200 and top-notch modern winemaking facilities have been  installed.  The White (2005) is a Sauvignon/Semillon mix with a dash of native Assyrtiko.  It has a strong aroma of cat’s pee (“Some people like that” said Roddy) .  Moggy’s toilet aside, there’s lashings of gooseberries and green fruit flavours.  Very refreshing… just hold your nose. The Rosé (2007)  is very full-bodied and luscious, full of strawberries and cream.  It proved to be a favourite amoung tasters.  Finally, the Red (2004), a Bordeaux blend with a touch of local Limnio, was slightly unbalanced for me.  There were lovely notes of nuts and sweet forest fruit on the nose, but there was a bit of a spirity kick on the palate.

Mediterra

The  Xerolithia 2006 (100% Vilana) had honeyed notes of peach and mango, with palate refreshing splashes of citrus.  A great buy!  The Mirambelo 2005 (Kotsifali and Madilaria) was quite closed on the night, but this wine  is always better the day after you open it.  Earthy vegetal tones, with chocolate and savoury spice.  Perfect with tomato based dishes.

Gaia

Gaia was founded in 1994 and is now one of the most famous Greek wine estates.  They are particularly well known for their work with the Agiorgitiko grape. 

Notios White (Moschofilero and Roditis blend) was very dry and fairly neutral.  It reminded people of some Italian white wines.  Notios Red (100% Agiorgitiko) was  much more interesting.  Soft bramble fruit, dusty cherries, gunflint and some jumpy acidity.  Last, but by no means least, Gaia Estate 2003 (100% Agiorgitiko). What a stunner! Firm cassis flavours with well integrated vanilla and cedar notes, and a touch of spice on the very long finish.  On a blind tasting of Gaia Estate and Cru Bourgois Bordeaux, Chateau Poujeaux, from Moulis-en-Medoc, the Greek wine won!  It’s half the price of the Bordeaux and will age nicely too.  I have some ageing, so ask me in 10 years if it’s still tasting marvellous.

Domaine de la Clapière Tasting

Xavier – the kind of well-ironed man all mothers want their daughters to bring home (sorry gals he’s married).

The lovely Xavier from Domaine de la Clapière, Montagnac, braved the cellars of George Street and treated us to a breakfast time tasting session.  He and his wife, Sophie, took over the 60 hectare estate several years ago. Since then, they have increased the output to 250 000 bottles per year.  Different grape varieties are vinified separately and a mixture of modern and traditional wine making techniques are used.  There is also a guest house on site where a lady called Agnès will look after you, she recommends 3 circuits round the vineyards to work up an appetite.  And to the wines….

Rosé Jalade – Cinsault

There was a subtle spiciness to this wine that I adored.  Also, savoury notes of fennel and redcurrant would make this rosé perfect with heavier vegetable dishes, such as ratatouille.  Watch out for magnums of this stuff appearing in a nightclub near you.  (Or so  Xavier hopes…)

 

Jardin de Jules – Merlot, Syrah, Carignan

 

Uncomplicated black fruit flavours, with a hint of spice.  Medium bodied and refreshing – very enjoyable indeed. The Merlot doesn’t have that ”overly cooked” flavour that some southern French Merlots are prone to. Give it a go with roast ham.

 

Domaine de la Clapière 2005 – Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet

Another Merlot dominated wine, yet this time aged in new oak for 12 months.  The result: a richer, fuller, more complex tipple.  Aromas of black fruits, spice, vanilla and a touches of smoke and spice.  A really tasty, opulent wine, that could be left in your cellar for another 10 years.  They suggest osso bucco or chicken casserole as food matches.

Arno the wino 

Madeira (Wine and Cake)

Henriques and Henriques Full Rich Madeira, Peckhams £9.99

Madeira is from the Portuguese island of the same name.  As with Port, Madeira started its life as an unfortified wine.  Funchal, the island’s capital, was a major port for ships en route to Africa, Asia and South America. It is thought that Madeira started exporting wine as early as the 16th century.  However, shippers  found that much of the wine detiorated before it reached its final destination, so fortification was the only solution.  They also found that the wine tasted better after these long, tropical sea journeys, which led to the popularity in Portugal of vinho da roda (wines that had been on a round trip).  Nowadays, the wine is gradually heated in estufas (hot houses) and then allowed to cool down, in order to simulate such voyages. 

 

Henriques & Henriques is the largest independent producer and shipper of Madeira wines and the only house that own vineyards on the island.  To try loads of Madeira (you’ll be sick) you have to got to the island, as only 6 companies are licensed to export. This one has lovely aromas of caramel, chocolate, prunes and a yeasty tang.  Quite full bodied and luscious, given that it is only 3 years old.  Wonderful stuff, and it went down a treat with my Madeira cake, which interestingly,  is called Bolo Inglês (English cake) in Portugal. 

One for Spitting (at Johnny Hallyday?)

Domaine Saint-Martin d’Aumes, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2006, Nicolas £7.50

I only managed to swallow 3 mouthfuls of this wine from the Herault region.  The fourth was aggressively spat into the sink.  On the nose I got fairly attractive red fruit aromas, but much to my surprise, the palate was infused with a taste of putrid oranges and rancid green tea.  This wine’s austere acidity didn’t do it any favours either, even when paired with food.  However, my fellow drinker was very fond of this wine and happily guzzled it with his stuffed aubergines. 

 The owner of Domaine St-Martin d’Aumes, Roger Santa, also has another property 40km down the road, where you’ll find Johnny Hallyday’s wine.

A Warning to Those Considering Plastic Surgery

 Johnny Hallyday (born Jean-Phillipe Smet), one of France’s most successful rockstars (and womanisers), has been on the go for 48 years!  He seems to be splattered across the pages of French textbooks in British schools.  In fact, the first thing I learnt to say in French was: “J’aime bien la musique de Johnny Hallyday”.  Are the French trying to brainwash us from an early age into buying his music?  Do I want to try his wine?  Bluntly, no.  From the above picture he looks scared to try it himself!

 

Cake Time

 

I think about cake about 72 times a day.  It’s unfortunate for my arteries that I work next to a bakery.  After acheiving my personal best for 80 lengths, I had only two things on my mind: 1. Sauna 2: Cake.  A lurid pink bun eaten in the park wasn’t enough to satisfy me, so I made my own (above).  It’s a recipe from a Marks and Spencer book, which I have adapted to fit my own, somewhat picky, cake tastes.  I know I really should’ve waited for the Scottish raspberry season, but Spain’s not so far away.  Feeds 8 people or one greedy person 8 times.

 

You need:

250 g of dark choc (I used 80% stuff.  I like it bitter) Cut it up as small as you can!

225 g Butter

5 eggs  (please use free range!)

100 g caster sugar (less if using tinned rasps)

85 g flour

A dash of cinnamon (I’ve experimented with ginger with nice results)

175 g raspberries

 

1. Preheat oven to  160 degrees.

2. Grease and line 9 inch tin… if you don’t line the bottom, your cake will be greasy!

3. Melt butter and choc… the secret: less melting time = better cake, so cut that choc up small!

4. Whilst this is cooling, whip up eggs and sugar until light and fluffy.  Then fold in melted choc and butter.

5. Sift flour and cinnamon into another bowl then fold into the chocolate mixture.

6. Pour into cake tin. Sprinkle raspberries evenly on top.  You decide how far you want them pushed in.  I prefer mine on the surface.  It’s more attractive.

7. Bake for 40 minutes. Until cake is springy to the touch.  Leave to cool for 15 mins, before turning out onto large serving plate.

8.  If it doesn’t look as attractive as mine, then you can dust it with icing sugar.  I like it served with cream.

 

This is a great recipe because it’s quick and there are potentially 3 bowls to lick.  Since there were no young children about at time of baking, I was happy to perform this task myself. 

With this cake I drank:

Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2000, Borkülönlegesség

A dear friend of mine brought me back this mini size (250 ml) Tokaji from a trip to Budapest.  At a mere 8 years old this Tokaji is a baby, but it still had great dried apricot, orange peel and candid fruit flavours topped off with zesty acidity that cut through the sweetness of the cake.  A beautiful way to end the day.

 

Quirky Quoting

 

 

Petites Récoltes – Vin de Pays des Maures 2007 3.99, Nicolas Sauchiehall st

I was delighted to see Nicolas have used a quote from my favourite French writer and humorist, Alphonse Allais(1854-1905), to decorate one of the new cheapie (but good) wines.  Translated, the quote says: “Mushrooms grow in damp places.  That’s why they are shaped like an umbrellas.”  Allais is famous for having foreseen his own death.  He neglected his doctor’s orders of staying in bed for 6 months, opting instead to have his daily coffee at his local caf.  There, he told a friend, “tomorrow I will die, you may find it funny, but I’m not laughing.”  And sure enough, the next day he died from a pulmonary embolism… eek. 

The other two wines in this range, a red and a rosé, display musings from both Oscar Wilde and Tchouang-Tseu respectively.  Quirky though they may be, it’s a shame that the marketing department at Nicolas didn’t think use any literary quotes about wine itself – Baudelaire devoted a whole section of Les Fleurs du Mal to “Le Vin”, for example.  Maybe that would be too simple…

I think this is by far the best white in the 3.99 range that Nicolas do.  Great peach, apple and citrus aromas.  Fresh yet fruity, this is a great glugger for anyone who doesn’t want anything too heavy… leave that to Tchouang-Tseu!

7.5 outta 10 (0.5 for the irrelevant, but nevertheless amusing, quote)

 

For dessert I felt the need for another quote, so I treated myself to a Baci chocolate (they have sickly sweet messages inside) Un piccolo bacio può racchiudere l’amore più grande. Or One little kiss can contain the grandest passion.

Girly Footballers

 

“Ancient Vines” Carignane, 2004, Bonny Doon Vineyard, £10.49 from Heart Buchanan, Byres Rd

Perhaps for some, a game of footie would be vastly more exciting if all the players wore knee-high boots, like the ones on this wine label.  Didn’t David once admit to donning Posh’s knickers for fun?  There’s no real connection between label and wine, it’s just that winemaker, Randall Grahm, is a bit of an eccentric.  Nicknamed the Rhone Ranger for his pioneering work with Rhone varietals in the Santa Cruz foothills, he sports a dodgy haircut (common in the wine world), loves his thesaurus and is responsible for superb wines such as Le Cigare Volant and Old Telegram.  Try them now!

 

This Carignan (spelt Carignane in the U.S) is made from vines that are over 100 years old, brought over by the Italian and Portuguese immigrants.  I adore Bonny Doon wines, but I was a little disappointed by this one.  The cherry flavour was overwhelming… a bit like cherryade. Perhaps a little on the thin side, which left a spirity after taste.  Not unpleasant in the slightest, but it lacked the earthy, dung aromas that I like from a Carignan.  6.5 outta 10 (0.5 for the label)

Cheeky Gaps

 

 

Scheurebe 2003, Bruder Dr. Becker, Dienheimer Kabinett (bought from Oddbins 4-5 years ago)

Whilst researching this wine, on the Dr Becker website, I found this very pleasing photo.  Being unable to decipher the German, I’m assuming this happy family make the above Sheurebe (Riesling x Silvaner cross).  Unfortunately, Tillman (17) and Lorenz (15), don’t seem to have inherited the cheeky-madonna-esque-front-teeth-gap from  their cheerier parents.  A plea to dentists:  Leave cheeky gaps alone!

This poor bottle had been festering away in the back office for 4-5 years.  It needed a good home and I was happy to provide it.  Man alive this was a stunner:  The typical, yet strange blackcurrant aroma was there (this wine is white). Lashings  of plump, honeyed stone fruit aromas, offset by petrol fumes and racy grapefruit acidity. 9 outta 10 and could have aged another 4 years.  They have every right to look so pleased with themselves!